John Lobb shoemakers is a highly respected manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife striking the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez model, introduced in 1950, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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